An edited version of this article appeared in the March 2018 issue of RIO Magazine, the official magazine of the San Antonio River Walk Association.
More than 10 percent of the United States’ population is of Irish descent, according to U.S. Census Data, so for San Antonio, a city of more than 1.5 million people, that means almost 160,000 of its citizens could have a Murphy, Kelly, O’Sullivan, Walsh, O’Brien, Connolly, Donogan, O’Neill, Flynn, Gallagher, Kennedy, Lynch, or Quinn in their family history.
For those who don’t, it doesn’t matter because everyone is Irish in San Antonio on March 17, St. Patrick’s Day. The Alamo City is internationally known for its annual celebration of the Emerald Isle, even going so far as to dye its river green and rename it the River Shannon.
This year’s river dyeing and parade begins on Saturday, March 17, at 4 p.m., starting at Homewood Suites, and traveling past the Drury Plaza, Aztec Theatre, Hyatt Hotel, Shops at Rivercenter, Convention Center, and the Arneson River Theatre.
The Texas State Historical Association writes that the Irish in San Antonio and South Texas date back to Spanish colonization. Dublin native Hugo O’Connor was interim governor of Texas and laid Mission San José’s cornerstone. Fray Juan Agustin Morfi (Murphy) wrote one of the earliest histories of San Antonio in 1777. Twelve Irish-born soldiers died defending the Alamo in 1836. Fourteen with Irish surnames also perished in the battle. Approximately 100 Irish-born fought in the Battle of San Jacinto.
Melinda Britten, president of the Harp & Shamrock Society, says she has learned so much history and so much about her own family from being a part of this active, 300-member group that has awarded more than $60,000 in scholarships since its beginning.
The organization’s original members placed the first memorial wreath at the Alamo in 1967 to honor those who fought and died there. This year’s ceremony on Saturday, March 17, at noon, will be their 51st year to do so.
After the ceremony, join the Harp & Shamrock Society at La Villita from noon to 8 p.m. for Passport to Ireland, a family-friendly, interactive exhibit to learn more about the Irish and Irish Texas History and culture. Displays include genealogical resources and interactive activities for children. Attendees will be able to kiss the Blarney Stone, sample Irish food and drink, and much more.
Live bands playing Irish music, Fire on the Mountain Cloggers, and Irish step dancers from the Inishfree School of Irish Dance will also perform at the Arneson River Theatre from noon to 8 p.m. on Friday, March 16, and Saturday, March 17. Admission is free.
For those who won’t be in San Antonio on March 17, never fear! Every day is St. Patrick’s Day at three local pubs.
Durty Nelly’s is nestled on the river level of the Hilton Palacio del Rio. You’ve got to love a place whose patrons belt out “You don’t have to call me darlin’” when you enter.
Recently renovated, Durty Nelly’s is a place that guests return to year after year. Jennifer Muniz, who’s been with the Hilton for 16 years, says that people go in as strangers and walk out as friends.
The pub’s piano players promote interaction in the cozy, relaxed environment. Guests have fun singing along, drinking beer and dumping their peanut shells onto the floor.
Keith Magel, one of Durty Nelly’s piano players, is better than any jukebox I’ve ever heard. He ranged from “Love Shack” to “You Picked a Fine Time to Leave Me Lucille” to “Gin and Juice” without breaking a sweat.
Bartender Robby Schwegmann started working at the pub in 1975, a year after it opened. He says Durty Nelly’s is like working in his living room. Guinness Stout, Jameson Irish Whiskey, Irish Coffee and the Nutty Irishmen are crowd favorites. Give a Lager & Lime–Harp Lager and Rose’s Lime Juice–and a Blacksmith–half Smithwick’s and half Guinness Stout–a try.
Durty Nelly’s pub grub is also a winner. Shepherd’s Pie, Fish & Chips, Corned Beef & Cabbage, and Black & Tan Onion Rings will please every palate.
Waxy O’Connor’s, across from La Mansion del Rio, opened in 2006. This Irish pub will celebrate its twelfth year of business on St. Patrick’s Day. One of the owners is Irish, so he had Waxy O’Connor’s bar built in Ireland and shipped to the port of Galveston. Irish carpenters then assembled the pub in San Antonio.
Guinness is also their biggest seller, according to assistant bar manager Christine Smith, but Busted Sandal, a beer brewed in San Antonio, holds its own.
You may enjoy a daily Happy Hour at Waxy O’Connor’s from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. with $2.50 bottled beer, $4 draft beer and $4 margaritas.
Do not miss Waxy’s Potato and Leek Soup or their Bangers & Mash, staff favorites. If you want to die and go to heaven, order their Bailey’s Irish Cream Cheesecake that comes with a side of house-made whipped cream.
Conroy’s, an Irish pub out Interstate 10 at Fair Oaks, hosts a St. Patrick’s Day event for the whole family to enjoy. Kids can bob for apples and master the corn hole while their parents get their fill of green beer. Live bands and guitar players will offer entertainment throughout the day.
Owner Gary Skinner says that 95 percent of Conroy’s food is made from scratch, including their Shepherd’s Pie, french fries, onion rings, mushrooms and fried pickles. Skinner also says that Conroy’s has one of the largest breakfast menus in all of San Antonio with Irish pancakes and Irish corned beef hash that are hard to beat.
As we say in San Antonio (hat tip to Durty Nelly’s menu), “May your joys be as long as the Spurs Coyote’s ears and your sorrows as short as his hair.”
Denise Barkis Richter, Ph.D., author of “San Antonio’s Passport to Fun,” has been blogging about San Antonio since June of 2010. Follow her at facebook.com/SanAntonioTourist so that you’ll never miss a post. Her love affair with the Alamo City began at Hemisfair in 1968. She moved to San Antonio in 1979 as an 18-year-old college student, and San Antonio has been her home ever since. Denise completed certification to become a professional tour guide in 2019. Please contact her at sanantoniotourist at gmail dot com if you’d like for her to curate a fabulous San Antonio experience for you!
